The Golf of Lions was calm. In contrast to its reputation for being
perennially windy and tempestuous, it greeted us with a glass-like sea
and complete calm: the first since the beginning of our trip. On the
ancient galleys, the oarsmen would have picked up their oars and begun
a long day. On 7 Roses however, today's propulsion is handled by the
twenty-eight horsepower old Yanmar. Our speed with the motor is not
unlike that reached by the quick and sleek galleys of yesteryear which
could cover between 5 and 6 miles an hour powered only by the force of
the arms. If speed (in our case) is not one of the advantages of
mechanical power over human, then consumption certainly is. The
oarsmen were not always slaves and in order to be efficient and
faithful to their commander, they had to be in good physical shape,
well nourished and well hydrated. There were very precise rules for
the hiring of crew and rowers. Among the documents from the thirteen
and fourteenth centuries in the archives of the museum in Marseilles
are the "roles of Oleron". Comparable to the decrees of modern labor
unions, the roles of Oleron indicated the type of food, the quantity
and quality that every member of the crew should receive during the
trip. Crackers, cured meat, dried fish, peas, fava beans, wine and
water were the basis of the diet. The portions had to be plentiful:
not less than two liters of wine a day, and for those who abstained, a
supplement of food at every meal. In comparison, the three liters of
gasoline and few grams of oil that my old motor consumes seem like a
very satisfactory alternative.
The sea along Camargue has a limey color that is not very inviting.
Here the Rhone empties into the Mediterranean and the history of
commercial maritime routes meets those of the internal routes. In the
last two centuries France developed a network of rivers and canals,
among the most important in Europe. The use of rivers for the movement
of goods and men goes back to ancient epochs; during the Roman era the
first canal to be dug in France connected the Rhone to the Seine. At the
end of the fourteenth century the first rudimentary lock was
constructed but the system now in use was the work of Leonardo
da Vinci. The development of river transport was born when Atlantic
crossings to the north were still very rare and sporadic. The ancient
Roman roads which guaranteed quick movement in a direct line were
inadequate for the needs of merchants. With caravans, the cost and the
risks of the voyage outweighed the worth of the merchandise. Loads
were limited, not only by the physical limitations of the caravan but
also by the rules of the old road code which, because of taxes and
tolls, imposed a maximum weight of between sixteen and eighteen
quintals on every carriage.
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The use of internal navigable roads
resolved many of the above problems: barges guaranteed a considerable
quantity of merchandise to be transported to the deeper areas while
rafts could pass over the more shallow areas. The prosperity, not
without difficulty, of river transportation saw an increase in the
interest of Italian traders who were already present in the more
important markets of northern, southern and central Europe.
Transporting by rivers and canals did not eliminate the problems of
tolls, bandits, aggressions and constraints brought about by forced
itineraries. It was most likely the constant search for more
advantageous, economic and competitive solutions that pushed Genoa,
Venice and Pisa to compete for alternative routes beyond the columns of
Hercules. Italian cities, more than others in the Mediterranean, felt
the necessity of maritime relations. One of the factors that brought
our people to search for routes on the high seas was the very
geological configuration of our peninsula. Mountains crossed Italy
from north to south, navigable roads were insufficient, and internal
roads were difficult and inconvenient. In order to escape the natural
geographic isolation, Genoa had only her ships and Venice would have
been very little if she had to count on 'terra ferma'. Cities such as
Palermo, Syracuse, Brindisi and Rimini had no other reason to exist
than their ports. Sailors for love or for necessity, Venetians,
Genoese and Tuscans accelerated the changes and progress in the art of
sailing.
Plowing through the seas of past and present, 7 Roses leaves the opaque
waters of the mouth of the Rhone and approaches Sete. At the time of
the Zeno brothers, this quaint little French city did not yet exist.
Sete was built around the middle of the 1600's, on a piece of land on a
lagoon that reminds one of Venice. Our historic course requires a
visit to Aigues Mortes, a medieval city that often saw Venetian ships
drop anchor in the shelter of her fortresses. At the time it was
built, Aigues Mortes was an appreciable port on the Mediterranean with
access to the rich commercial exchanges from both canals and the sea.
Here ships of the king of France and the Templars were armed before
setting sail for the Crusades to Egypt and Tunisia. Aigues Mortes was
also renowned for its large salt deposits, an inexhaustible bank of
white gold in those far off centuries. Of this past prosperity, the
forts that enclose the city still remain, as well as the salt deposits
which are still today among the most extensive in the south of France.
The port has disappeared, swallowed up by the sands of the lagoon.
There are no longer crusades and armed soldiers, ships of war or
transport, but a large natural reserve for the calm colonies of herons
and pink flamingos.
The course of 7 Roses is now set toward Spain. Next stops,
Barcelona and Valencia.
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